How Mainers really live
Tag: Maine
The gap betwixt Moose Island and the mainland
Hunkering down for winter
We’re quickly approaching the longest nights of the year, which are truly long here in Eastport. Accompanied by the most truncated days of the year, when the sun barely clears the horizon. We’re just a hair shy of the 45th Parallel, the halfway point between the equator and the North Pole. These days, it can feel even further north than the map shows.
The experience can be especially harsh here, now that the Summer People are long gone and most of the stores and galleries are shut for the season while those that remain open do so largely on limited hours. You might see a stranger or two in town around sunset, looking for a place to eat, and the best you can do is tell them to go to the IGA and get there before the 7 o’clock closing. Pizza slices or deli cuts plus a six-pack lead the list.
Even more, we know big snow, escalating ice, and profound cold are still ahead, as well as a blustery nor’easter or three.
We don’t even have a retail scene to crank up the holiday hoopla. Nor do we have anything resembling a nightlife, apart from a few cultural performances. Bless ‘em, especially after the Covid shutdowns.
Needless to say, social connections are especially important. For me, that includes singing in Quoddy Voices and worshiping with Cobscook Friends Meeting.
Also anticipated is a big stack of reading, both books and magazines, and concerts streamed from the Pine Tree State and beyond.
I’m already looking forward to the invasion of family for the holidays.
How do you adjust to such seasonal change?
Maine Public service reaches far
Early twilight
Bays within bays, all adding into one
For someone raised like me far from the ocean, trying to pin down places along the coastline can be confounding.
Eastport, for instance, lies within famed Fundy Bay yet also has Cobscook Bay lapping its west banks and Passamaquoddy Bay on its east.
What gives?
Well, let’s say the bays are like Matreshka Dolls, one fitting inside another one that fits within yet another one and so on.
Cobscook Bay, for instance, includes the smaller East, South, Sipp, Dennys, and Whiting bays.
I guess it’s like a New Yorker saying she’s from Flatbush, meaning a part of Brooklyn within New York City, which does – contrary to the knowledge of many Manhattanites – sprawl far beyond their little island.
So Eastport can justly claim to be the City in the Bay. Or several.
Sign of living in a really small town
His return address was his last name and nine-digit Zip code.
How you locate where the international border runs between two islands
Pyramids like this sit in prominent spots along the shore. They can seem mystifying enough, even before you see a second one nearby.
At last, I learned the two can be lined up to create an imaginary line running out across the water. The border between the United States and Canada falls where the line crosses a similar line running from islands on the other side. That spot can then be connected to others, at least by some kind of maritime surveyors. It’s another example of connect-the-dots.
The four-sided pyramids are called range markers. They’re a special kind of daymark or day beacon, too.
BAR cars stuck in the woods
Seeing railroad boxcars away from the tracks around here no longer surprises me. Many of them stand beside farmhouses and sheds or even businesses, where they serve as extra storage space, presumably cheap or for the taking.
But this sight along State Route 191 always grabs me.
The Bangor and Aroostook Railroad served Washington County as well as the Penobscot Bay region and the spud country up north.
When sardines were big
Eastport’s economic glory days were when the city was the Sardine Capital of the World.
They’re small herring and abounded in the waters around Eastport, where they were easily caught and delivered straight to the cannery atop the wharf.
Here are some related facts.
- Napoleon Bonaparte helped initiate the canning of sardines, the first fish to be so preserved.
- Packing in Maine took off from Eastport in the 1870s and peaked around 1900, with 75 plants, mostly along the Downeast coast. The first sardine cannery in Eastport started in 1865 but failed to reduce the moisture in the cans, leading to a sharp, unpleasant odor. Its owner returned to Portland and found success with baked beans. Others in Eastport improved the process.
- The workforce was largely women, with blurring hands and sharp knives or scissors expertly packing the small fish into cans – as crowded as sardines, as the popular expression went. Their hands were in cold seawater, year-‘round.
- Eastport also cranked out the cans and lithographed labels.
- The fish were packed in cottonseed oil, soy oil, or upper-end mustard sauce.
- The world’s biggest sardine cannery jutted 250 feet out from the shore at the entrance to Shackford Cove.
- Home refrigeration doomed the industry, making fresh cod, haddock, and other fish readily accessible.
- Sardine tins were part of soldiers’ rations during the world wars.
- The discarded fish parts were used to make fertilizer, while the scales were transformed into pearl essence, a shiny coloring used in many consumer products.
- Vintage sardine cans and labels are collectors’ items.
Jnana's Red Barn 