Tag: Travel

NEW ENGLAND ART MUSEUMS

~ Jnana Hodson ~ 2 Comments
A fitting fanfare as a welcome in Manchester. It moves in the wind.
A fitting fanfare as a welcome in Manchester. It moves in the wind.

Growing up in the American Midwest, I had the impression that New England was, well, uniformly cultured. Moving here at the end of the roundabout route that emerged, however, I was surprised to discover how unevenly that Culture was distributed. It was essentially centered in Boston. Or more specifically, Huntington Avenue in the city’s Back Bay neighborhood, in the Theater District, Museum of Fine Arts Boston, and Symphony Hall, plus Harvard Square in Cambridge across the Charles River.

For perspective, New England has only one major-league professional orchestra, the Boston Symphony, compared to eight in the Midwest – Cleveland, Cincinnati, Detroit, Chicago, St. Louis, Kansas City, Milwaukee, and Minneapolis. (Well, maybe seven these days, after the disastrous events in the Twin Cities.)

The underlying reason, I’ve sensed, arises in the historic ownership of New England’s economic base – the textiles mills, especially, along the rivers and streams – by the fabled Boston Brahmins. In other words, while New England’s products sold around the globe, the profits flowed into Proper Bostonians’ mansions, and these, in turn, endowed the great cultural institutions.

*   *   *

The Currier Museum of Art in Manchester, New Hampshire.
The Currier Museum of Art in Manchester, New Hampshire.

The region’s art museums, on the other hand, provide another slant on this legacy. I’ll argue that the largest, wealthiest galleries are not always the most exciting; when it comes to art collections, quality is often based on the gifts of a few insightful, daring donors. Since we frequently visit museums when we travel – and art museums, especially – here’s an overview of what we’ve found. Admittedly, we’ve missed some.

  • Museum of Fine Arts Boston: The Grand Dame comes with a stiff admission fee and all the air of a leading museum, and her strengths are impressive, indeed, especially in Impressionist painting and Asian artifacts. But there are also some glaring gaps, especially in Old Masters. The new American Wing has at least brought one shortage up to snuff.
  • Isabella Stewart Gardiner Museum, Boston: A block away from the MFA, Isabella’s quirky “playhouse” on the Fenway is one you either love or hate. With its galleries circling an impressive indoor garden, her idiosyncratic assemblage is displayed exactly as her will demanded; undisputed masterworks are left hanging between many third-rate paintings, detracting from the experience. Still, the egotism, pro and con, remains staggering.
  • Worcester Art Museum: Considering the current economic condition of New England’s second-largest city, the collection comes as a delightful, comprehensive surprise. From its powerful pre-Columbian gallery on the top floor through the Americans and the Old Masters below, visitors will find themselves richly rewarded. One small room featuring New England’s Childe Hassam and Edmund Tarbell is both confident and moving, an example of the wise presentation throughout.
  • The Wadsworth Atheneum, Hartford: The glory here is the large collection of American Illuminist paintings (a term I prefer to the Hudson River School), but the routing through the rest of the otherwise impressive collection becomes jolting. We are not led smoothly around, but rather thrown from dark Colonial rooms into brilliant Modernist department-store presentation and then back into dark caverns again. Senselessly disturbing.
  • Peabody-Essex Museum, Salem: Originating in the “cabinets of curiosities” ship captains were expect to bring back for display in their hometowns, this institution’s transformation into a vital force is a model of building upon a clearly defined mission. Recognizing Salem’s role as a principal port in historic China sea trade, the collection focuses on Asian art (both the works manufactured for export and works intended for native use) and on the region’s seafaring riches. I love the bowsprits and captain’s logs as much as the Korean and Japanese galleries. Many of the special exhibits have been incredible. Surprisingly, it claims to be among the 20 largest art museums in the country, based on its holdings.
  • Currier Art Museum, Manchester, New Hampshire: Here’s a moderate-size museum that has a wonderful sampling of art history, some renowned pieces from the 20th century, and justifiable pride in the Granite State’s own artists and traditions. Well worth revisiting.
  • Portland Museum of Art, Maine: Its Impressionist collection is a major coup. New York wept when the key donations were announced. Need we say more?
  • Farnsworth Art Museum, Rockland, Maine: Quite the surprise in a small working-harbor town on Penobscot Bay. Lively works of our own time, with a focus on Maine … and not just the Wyeths. Alex Katz, for instance, has helped the collection make some impressive purchases. We were delighted by a recent major show of Shaker artifacts, mounted with assistance from the only surviving Shaker colony, the one at Sabbathday Lake in New Gloucester.
  • Ogunquit Art Museum, Maine: This small, seasonal, seaside museum made its way into our hearts with a special exhibit of Edward Hopper paintings that turned out to be made on and around the site.

GRANITE STATE’S QUEEN CITY

~ Jnana Hodson ~ 3 Comments
Seen from the falls, Ste. Marie Roman Catholic church crowns Manchester's French-Canadian West Side.
Seen from the falls, Ste. Marie Roman Catholic church crowns Manchester’s French-Canadian West Side.

As the largest city in northern New England, Manchester was built on the water power captured at the Amoskeag Falls in the Merrimack River.

The Amoskeag Falls, now submerged behind the dam in the Merrimack River, were the source of the city's industrial power. A hydroelectric dam sits at the left of the photo.
The Amoskeag Falls, now submerged behind the dam in the Merrimack River, were the source of the city’s industrial power. A hydroelectric generating station sits at the left of the photo.
A large complex of mills on the east side of the river was powered by the water channeled through this canal.
A large complex of mills on the east side of the river was powered by the water channeled through this canal.
The downtown has undergone a revival. Here's one of the side streets.
The downtown has undergone a revival. Here’s one of the side streets.

 

QUEEN SLIPPER CITY

~ Jnana Hodson ~ 1 Comment
The train station, perched at the side of downtown, includes Amtrak's Downeaster service to North Station in Boston, in one direction, and Maine in the other. (That run stops in Dover, New Hampshire.) There's also MBTA's Purple Line into Boston.
The train station, perched at the side of downtown Haverhill, Massachusetts, includes Amtrak’s Downeaster service to North Station in Boston, in one direction, and Maine in the other. (That run stops in Dover, New Hampshire.) There’s also MBTA’s Purple Line into Boston.

New England’s waterways are dotted with historic mill towns. The Merrimack River alone could boast of the water-powered industrial centers of Manchester and Nashua in New Hampshire as well as Lowell, Lawrence, Haverhill, and Amesbury downstream in Massachusetts, along with Newburyport and its harbor.

Some of the warren of old mills remains, including buildings converted to offices and housing.
Some of Haverhill’s warren of old mills remains, including buildings converted to offices and housing.
Catch the view of the distant church in the gap.
Catch the view of the distant church in the gap.
Much has also been razed, often for parking lots.
Much has also been razed, often for parking lots.
Here's a bit of scale.
Here’s a bit of scale.

While textiles were the focus of much of New England’s mill output, the power was applied to other products as well. Haverhill, for instance, emerged as a center of shoemaking, by 1913 producing one of every 10 pairs in America and earning it a whimsical nickname of Queen Slipper City. Its earlier commerce rested on woolen mills, tanneries, shipping, and shipbuilding.

Downtown details.
Downtown details.
Still impressive.
Still impressive.
In those days, every building could be a "block."
In those days, every building could be a “block.”
Facing the train station, a reflection of earlier prosperity.
Facing the train station, a reflection of earlier prosperity.
Down the street, around the corner.
Down the street, around the corner.
Not everything was brick.
Not everything was brick.

Like many of these once industrial centers, the city has been struggling to adapt to new directions and refit its legacy of old structures.

By the way, in Yankee style, it’s pronounced HAY-vril and is today a city of 60,000. But the river still runs through it.

The river flows toward the Atlantic.
The river flows toward the Atlantic. The tides fluctuate widely here twice a day.
The railroad crosses from downtown and then follows the river upstream to Lawrence. It's a lovely ride.
The railroad crosses from downtown and then follows the river upstream to Lawrence. It’s a lovely ride.