Tag: Travel

GRANITE STATE’S QUEEN CITY

~ Jnana Hodson ~ 3 Comments
Seen from the falls, Ste. Marie Roman Catholic church crowns Manchester's French-Canadian West Side.
Seen from the falls, Ste. Marie Roman Catholic church crowns Manchester’s French-Canadian West Side.

As the largest city in northern New England, Manchester was built on the water power captured at the Amoskeag Falls in the Merrimack River.

The Amoskeag Falls, now submerged behind the dam in the Merrimack River, were the source of the city's industrial power. A hydroelectric dam sits at the left of the photo.
The Amoskeag Falls, now submerged behind the dam in the Merrimack River, were the source of the city’s industrial power. A hydroelectric generating station sits at the left of the photo.
A large complex of mills on the east side of the river was powered by the water channeled through this canal.
A large complex of mills on the east side of the river was powered by the water channeled through this canal.
The downtown has undergone a revival. Here's one of the side streets.
The downtown has undergone a revival. Here’s one of the side streets.

 

QUEEN SLIPPER CITY

~ Jnana Hodson ~ 1 Comment
The train station, perched at the side of downtown, includes Amtrak's Downeaster service to North Station in Boston, in one direction, and Maine in the other. (That run stops in Dover, New Hampshire.) There's also MBTA's Purple Line into Boston.
The train station, perched at the side of downtown Haverhill, Massachusetts, includes Amtrak’s Downeaster service to North Station in Boston, in one direction, and Maine in the other. (That run stops in Dover, New Hampshire.) There’s also MBTA’s Purple Line into Boston.

New England’s waterways are dotted with historic mill towns. The Merrimack River alone could boast of the water-powered industrial centers of Manchester and Nashua in New Hampshire as well as Lowell, Lawrence, Haverhill, and Amesbury downstream in Massachusetts, along with Newburyport and its harbor.

Some of the warren of old mills remains, including buildings converted to offices and housing.
Some of Haverhill’s warren of old mills remains, including buildings converted to offices and housing.
Catch the view of the distant church in the gap.
Catch the view of the distant church in the gap.
Much has also been razed, often for parking lots.
Much has also been razed, often for parking lots.
Here's a bit of scale.
Here’s a bit of scale.

While textiles were the focus of much of New England’s mill output, the power was applied to other products as well. Haverhill, for instance, emerged as a center of shoemaking, by 1913 producing one of every 10 pairs in America and earning it a whimsical nickname of Queen Slipper City. Its earlier commerce rested on woolen mills, tanneries, shipping, and shipbuilding.

Downtown details.
Downtown details.
Still impressive.
Still impressive.
In those days, every building could be a "block."
In those days, every building could be a “block.”
Facing the train station, a reflection of earlier prosperity.
Facing the train station, a reflection of earlier prosperity.
Down the street, around the corner.
Down the street, around the corner.
Not everything was brick.
Not everything was brick.

Like many of these once industrial centers, the city has been struggling to adapt to new directions and refit its legacy of old structures.

By the way, in Yankee style, it’s pronounced HAY-vril and is today a city of 60,000. But the river still runs through it.

The river flows toward the Atlantic.
The river flows toward the Atlantic. The tides fluctuate widely here twice a day.
The railroad crosses from downtown and then follows the river upstream to Lawrence. It's a lovely ride.
The railroad crosses from downtown and then follows the river upstream to Lawrence. It’s a lovely ride.