NEWMARKET

Like Dover, the town of Newmarket flanks Durham and its state university campus, and as a former textiles mill town, it, too, is home to a number of University of New Hampshire students and the kinds of businesses one would expect as a consequence – small restaurants, bars, pizza parlors, bookstores, yoga studios, nightspots, and so on. The Stone Church Meeting House has long been a venue for emerging musical acts.

The Stone Church Meeting House sits atop a steep street downtown.
The Stone Church Meeting House sits atop a steep street downtown.
The vibe says it all.
The vibe says it all.

The town of approximately 9,000 also has a strong blue-collar side, which also feeds into a distinctly funky feel.

But to me there’s always been a sensation that the place isn’t fully New England. It somehow reminds me more of small cities in central Pennsylvania or even Galena, Illinois, near the Mississippi. I think that has to do with the way the central street twists through downtown and the prevalence of stonework rather than the traditional brick in the mills and a few prominent houses. It’s picturesque, all the same.

Key to its industrial development was a large inland saltwater estuary that allowed extensive shipping. In generic usage, Great Bay also encompasses Little Bay and a host of small-town waterfronts where humble rivers fall to sea level. These include Durham and its Oyster River; Exeter and the Exeter/Squamscott; and Newmarket, with the Lamprey River, before passing Dover Point and emptying into the Piscataqua River on its way to the Atlantic. It’s a major breeding ground for fish populations all along the East Coast, and the current at Dover Point is always intense.

Hope you enjoy this quick tour.

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SAWYERS MILL

Always, a central weathervane.
Always, a central weathervane.
The street winds through the old complex.
The street winds through the old complex.

While the Cocheco Millworks in downtown Dover anchor the center of the town, the Sawyers Mill complex is tucked away on the Bellamy River.

Both the Cocheco and Bellamy form the flanks of Dover Point as they flow toward the sea.

Worker housing.
Worker housing.

ROUND AND ROUND WE GO

Fair warning, especially when there's no backup.
Fair warning, especially when there’s no backup.

Drivers from other parts of the world are often terrified by New England’s use of traffic circles at busy intersections. We’re not the only people to use them – Washington, D.C., has some of the worst – but they do become landmarks. In New Hampshire, for instance, a set of directions might mention the Portsmouth Traffic Circle, or the one at Epsom or Stratham or Alton or Lee, shown here.

It's when you add traffic that things get fun.
It’s when you add traffic that things get fun.

Other terms for the routing around a central island include “rotaries” and “roundabouts.” What Romans call theirs would be unprintable in a family-friendly blog like this.

 

THE SCOUT HOUSE

The tradition of New England contradancing flourishes inside the Scout House in Concord, Massachusetts – a former barn now owned by the Girl Scouts and rented out by the folklore enthusiasts. Monday nights are legendary, and weekends are packed.
The tradition of New England contradancing flourishes inside the Scout House in Concord, Massachusetts – a former barn now owned by the Girl Scouts and rented out by the folklore enthusiasts. Monday nights are legendary, and weekends are packed.
Seen from the side.
Seen from the side.

 

 

 

UP NIMBLE HILL

Nimble Hill Road is quite a contrast to the congestion around the mall and big-box stores on the other side of the turnpike.
Nimble Hill Road is quite a contrast to the congestion around the mall and big-box stores on the other side of the turnpike.

The town of Newington, just over the bridge on our way to Portsmouth, is easily misunderstood.

With a 2010 population of a mere 753, it often appears to be little more than the Spaulding Turnpike exits to the mall and big-box stores plus a few apartment complexes and a section of the Pease International Tradeport industrial park.

It also has a major electrical generation plant contributing heavily to the property tax base – a major, major factor for any municipality in New Hampshire as it addresses public finances.

The town is also surrounded on three sides by tidewater, including ocean docking on its eastern edge.

But the place was also severely impacted during the Cold War when the U.S. Air Force used eminent domain to acquire 4,255 acres to construct an air base (now turned into the industrial zone) mostly in Newington. The noise of bomber-sized jet planes taking off and landing did little to enhance the neighborhood as a place to live peacefully in those days – the frequent interruptions even forced the grade school to find a quieter setting. After all, its runway, now used by commercial, private, and National Guard flights, is among the longest in New England.

Given those factors, few people would have much incentive to take the Nimble Hill Road exit from the turnpike.

As it turns it, the road presents some classic New England just before culminating in a dead end near the runway. The historic district is a treasure.

Here’s a taste of what you’d see.

The 1725 parsonage includes a salt-box addition as an early renovation.
The 1725 parsonage includes a salt-box addition as an early renovation.
A cannon is part of the town monuments near the center of the Parade where the militia practiced. More Newington men served in the Siege of Louisburg (13) and War of 1812 (12) than in World War I. The background includes the well-funded library and 1712 meeting house, said to be the oldest in New Hampshire. (Hope they mean oldest in continuous use, since I know of two Quaker meetinghouses that are now private residences.)
A cannon is part of the town monuments near the center of the Parade where the militia practiced. More Newington men served in the Siege of Louisburg (13) and War of 1812 (12) than in World War I. The background includes the well-funded library and 1712 meeting house, said to be the oldest in New Hampshire. (Hope they mean oldest in continuous use, since I know of two Quaker meetinghouses that are now private residences.)
The elementary school fell victim to loud noise from Air Force bombers.
The elementary school fell victim to loud noise from Air Force bombers.
The 1872 Old Town Hall once also housed the school.
The 1872 Old Town Hall once also housed the school.