
cruise ship off Rockport
glare against haze of blue
Camden Hills a thousand-plus feet
other schooners out of Rockland
Eagle Island light
Mark Island light
Saddleback Ledge light
too far off to photograph
American Eagle
full sail
after a nap
You never know what we'll churn up in cleaning a stall

cruise ship off Rockport
glare against haze of blue
Camden Hills a thousand-plus feet
other schooners out of Rockland
Eagle Island light
Mark Island light
Saddleback Ledge light
too far off to photograph
American Eagle
full sail
after a nap
perfect weather, sunny, 60s
a knot = 1.1 mph

a little more up
meaning into the wind
luffing, meaning chuffing in the sheets
no sea legs yet
wobbly
even on calm seas
bit queasy
edge of mal de mer?
slow lull
slow sun
will I feel a late-season burn?
“all on the bowline, we sing that melody
like all good sailors do when they’re faraway at sea”
a song our Dylan doesn’t know
in his impressive repertoire
a generational gap
116th Street Blues, starts out with Captain Ahab
then more nautical lines
find your own style
it’s an active experience
just relax
Remind me that not all candy is chocolate and not all flowers are roses. But you might want to check out just what’s inside those heart-shaped red boxes tomorrow.
Here’s some perspective:
Thanks especially to Max at Dame Cacao. She just might be worth a Tendril of her own.
Honoring the Philadelphia family of Curtis Publishing
(Saturday Evening Post legacy)
this lighthouse at Camden

the bay is sheltered from the motions
of the open ocean

there are subtle rolls and pitches
whoa! There just was a wave
Getting acquainted at our dock in Camden
Safety talk
And everybody gets to pitch in

14 passengers, short of 21 max
(few of the double beds have two booked this trip)
crew of four plus cook

and we scoot off
So who was Louis Robbins French?
Father of the three sons
who built this in South Bristol, Maine

The French is 101 feet overall, 65 feet on deck, with 19 feet of beam, as the brochure proclaims. She draws 7.5 feet with a full keel. A proven vessel in all conditions, she is a nifty and quick sailor, having won the Great Schooner Race many times. The French has also participated in recent Tall Ships gatherings in Boston. It spent part of its life based out of Lubec just south of Eastport.

the French was largely stripped and gutted
and rebuilt for passengers
what’s left?
As my buddy Peter grinned at me at the end of our week:
“Your first love. You never forget.”
It’s like camping, with the canvas over your head rather than a tent.

Peter tried to brace me for the, uh, unique quarters. And the pause when I mentioned taking a shower.
I had a snug berth, as you’ll see later. The only electricity on board came from some strong batteries and a small solar array.
Rather than a floating night club and hotel of a typical cruise ship, a Maine windjammer is small and laid-back. You even have to wash your own dishes.

As the windjammers’ association brochure says:
Unlike large cruise ships, windjammers have bunks and cozy cabins, not monster staterooms and 24-hour buffets. Windjammers are woody and compact below decks. Crew and guests live and work in close quarters. The ship’s galley and dining areas are like your kitchen at home – everybody mingles there.
The Maine experience dates from 1936, when Captain Frank Swift started offering adventurous passengers sailing opportunities formerly only available to private yacht owners.
Last summer I got to be one of them. It really was memorable.

One of my favorite comfort foods, especially the way my wife creates it.
Ships come in all sizes and shapes, and people aware of the differences see vessels that float quite differently than the rest of the population. Well, it’s like looking at birds and then birders.
Living beside the ocean I had learned to differentiate a sloop from a schooner, or so I thought. Both have triangular sails, with sloops having just one mast and schooners, two or more.
Not to be confused with square-riggers, the kind of tall-mast ships most people envision from history. Or so I once did. You know, Old Ironsides, the USS Constitution, or even the Mayflower, however much smaller.
As for triangular sails, like those on sailboats. Not quite accurate when it comes to schooners. There’s something called a gaff … creating the hip-roof look of a schooner’s sails.

My closeup introduction to a schooner came in a side trip earlier in the day I would step aboard one for my virgin voyage that will inform later posts. To kill time, so I thought, my buddy and I headed off to Castine, then a hole in my inner map of Maine, apart from references by friends.
And that’s where I was introduced to the Bowdoin, now named for the college of the same name but more importantly a historic vessel used by Donald Baxter MacMillan in his Arctic expeditions. Quite simply, she was designed to withstand incredible freezing – and did. I’m now wondering how the crew did, under those conditions.
That said, she was a schooner. I had seen one docked in Eastport, but this time I had a curator at hand to explain the distinctive parts.
Emphatically, it is not a square-rigger.
Schooner, as Dutch, it’s not SHOONER, after all, as my New Amsterdam Dutch-descendant Peter could easily point out, yet from deference, hasn’t. (Do I get points for noticing?)
Typically, a crew of 2½
two men and a boy
no cook?
an average life of 25 years
for a wooden ship
(owned in shares
spread the risk and profits)

The second-Saturdays afternoon event at a local tavern is already full of fine memories, including a visiting famed Irish fiddler shown here. Its core is MICE, the Moose Island Contradance ensemble. That space was soon filled with other players.