The small New Castle lighthouse is one of two along the Piscataqua River as it links Portsmouth Harbor to the Atlantic.
This fortification guarding the mouth of the Piscataqua River in New Castle, New Hampshire, has a unique place in American history. It was raided twice by Patriots in 1774, and the gunpowder and cannons captured from the British were later deployed at the Battle of Bunker Hill in Boston. Its small lighthouse is one of two along Portsmouth Harbor.
The panorama view shows the lighthouse in context with fortifications originally built before 1632 and renamed Fort William and Mary around 1692.
Like Venus fly traps, pitcher plants lure insects to their depths and drown the prey with nectar. These plants at Quoddy Head, Maine, are seen in a peat bog after heavy rain. (Photo by Rachel Williams)The wonders are hidden in this bog.
The garden today tries to be faithful to the original. The railing is where the cottage porch once stood.
Celia Thaxter (1835-1894) is an intriguing character in New England history. An important figure in New England poetry, she was also a pioneering hotelier, flower gardener, and catalyst in the fine arts.
Celia in her garden, 1899
While turning her family’s hotel on Appledore Island in the Atlantic into what was probably the leading summer resort in the Northeast, she also created a famed artists’ colony with salon events featuring a who’s who of America’s leading artists, poets, novelists, and painters. There were likely more, including actors and dancers.
With its 95 acres, Appledore is the largest of the nine islands that comprise the Isles of Shoals about nine miles off the coast of Maine and New Hampshire. It was known as Hog Island until Celia’s family decided to build the hotel and turned to an earlier name for the shoals, one drawn from the Old English word for apple tree. How romantic.
The shoals also include tidal ledges.
Celia’s flower garden in front of her cottage became legendary, celebrated in her lovely book An Island Garden, with glorious illustrations by Impressionist master Childe Hassam. I treasure my reproduction copy. She’s the one who convinced Hassam to use his middle name rather than Frederick as an artist.
The hotel itself burned in 1914, and today the island is privately owned, much of it by the Shoals Marine Laboratory run by the University of New Hampshire and Cornell University. Visits are strictly controlled.
Today Appledore Island is the home of the Shoals Marine Laboratory. The tower was a bunker used to watch for German submarines approaching Portsmouth Harbor during World War II. The hotel sat in the open space from 1847 to 1914. A corner of her resurrected garden is at the lower left.
Last summer, my wife and elder daughter and I indulged in a tour of the island. Among its highlights was walking through the grounds of the long-gone hotel and a replication of Celia’s garden, which is much smaller than we’d expected and less carefully tended. The fact that it needed such constant care is a lesson in humility for those of us who expect similar results on much larger tracts.
And, for those of you who have read the garden book, I’m told that garden slugs are no longer a problem.
Nearby is her grave.
Celia is buried with her parents and siblings on the island.
We caught flashes of the big woodpecker a few weeks earlier, but it kept escaping our cameras. And then, a few weeks later while pausing along the old carriage road to the top of Garrison Hill, I saw this.
The central hole is big enough to put your hand in.
As far as I can tell, this fisherman has no name. He was left behind by the film crew of “Small Town X,” and he’s become Eastport’s waterfront emblem. The cod, meanwhile, looks petrified.
We had to wonder the background of this building in Eastport, Maine. Could have been a factory, maybe fish processing, or a warehouse. Turns out to have once been the world’s biggest sardine cannery. The potential also intrigues, should anyone take up its restoration before it collapses into the tide.