A change of direction in the search

Working the line of our old house downward quickly led to a tangle. You’ve been following what I uncovered at the Washington County courthouse, but at this point, an earlier reference was not recorded in the transaction at hand. Zip, zero, nada. Without that, I was stuck at 1975, well within my own lifetime, not exactly historic in my viewpoint.

The sale to the Greenlaws, according to the record, involved Oscar L. Whalen, executor for estate of Arline F. Vaughn, of New York, and someone named Rose Lee. But there was no Book and Page mention to lead me to the next entry.

The best I could do was to try working from the earliest residents and hope to build a line to 1975.

Since the 1855 map labeled our house “Shackford Est,” looking at the Shackford family made sense. Maybe Arlene was one of them.

Revisiting the Tides Institute and Museum of Art’s online survey of the homes of Eastport, I found that they had added a notation to their photo of our house. They quoted the weekly Eastport Sentinel account of U.S. Navy Commander Albert Buck returning home after World War II. Home, of course, is the one where we’re now living.

Buck? That gave me another family to start investigating, especially since they were living across the street in the 1855 map.

A varied decade of occupants

The Milanos were also short-term owners of our house. They sold the property in June 1978 to Dora and Merrill Lank junior. He was an Eastport native who served a stint as a city police officer and also enjoyed making wreaths. Both of them had grown up in Eastport — he in the north end and she in the south — and had children.

When the Lanks took ownership, our house had a slate roof, one with a pink scalloped pattern worked it. It was sided it what Dora has called ugly blue asphalt shingles. They divided the two big rooms upstairs into four, added the closets at the top of the stairs, and installed the casement window over the kitchen sink and the pass-through to the front parlor before moving in with her mother a few blocks away.

The house was then rented to Mel Soctomah, newly retired from the U.S. Army. He was Passamaquoddy in his late 40s and moved in with his wife, three children, and a dog. At liberty to make renovations, he installed the big wood and oil-fired cook stove that occupied the kitchen when we arrived. He recalled that the flue drew well, an important consideration in a place as windy as Eastport. They then left for a stint in Florida before returning to Eastport and neighboring Sipayik for good.

Dora and Merrill divorced, though, and complications emerged after she moved on. There was a sale from Bangor Savings Bank to the U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development on October 8, 1982, with a supplementary entry on August 5, 1983. This was during a national recession that included a depressed real estate market and foreclosures. Somehow, Gordon Greenlaw reappears in this sale.

Sometime during this period and the one that followed, puzzling rough-sawn dark ceiling beams were erected in the two front parlors — “pseudo-rustic pop 1970’s kitsch,” in the words of one current resident, or “ye old Lion’s Den tavern,” in the mind of another. Those ceiling beams are distinctive, in that love- it-or-hate-it kind of way. For us, our reaction often depends on the day you might be asking. Looking closer, touches appeared in the kitchen, like the Montgomery Ward electric stovetop that came with the house when we bought it. Monkey Ward, for the record, went out of business in 2000 and probably had no outlet anywhere near Eastport well before that. I am wondering about some of the shelves, though, and considering them her Calla’s. Or now, maybe Mel’s. Nice work, either way. Particle board cabinets that also arrived at now scheduled for replacement, as are the triple-track storm windows.

We can still ask who added the knee walls or the cosmic crab wall painting we found under the wallpaper upstairs.

Wheeling and dealing with the Greenlaws

Continuing the history of our old house:

Gordon and Calla Greenlaw purchased the house in January 1975 but then sold in in December of that year to Frank and Georgia Miliano.

With the Greenlaws, the plot takes a distinct turn. Gordon received a Purple Heart award in World War II. He died in August 2014 in Florida and was buried at the Maine Veterans Memorial Cemetery in Augusta.

Crucially, this was a second marriage for both of them, sometime before mid-1969.

Greenlaw and its variant, Greenlow, is another surname that goes back in Downeast history, as I’m finding.

He engaged in a string of real estate transactions — 66 in Washington County, from what I found in a quick survey, some of them purchases of properties seized on tax liens.

She predeceased him by a month, and while her obituary dutifully named her as Mrs. Calla R. Greenlaw, she was buried alongside her Magoon kin in her native Crawford, a distance from Augusta. It was noted that she died peacefully in her sleep of natural causes but curiously no location was mentioned. She was 99.

As the obituary observed, “Mrs. Greenlaw lived the greater part of her life in Eastport. She attended school in Crawford and Calais. She was the consummate businesswoman. She worked in the Calais Post Office for many years and later owned and operated the Red Ranch Inn in Eastport and dabbled in real estate.”

Mention of the Red Ranch Inn raises some eyebrows. It still has a reputation as a roughneck bar in its time, the kind where everybody would roll out onto the State Route 190 (the only road into town) for a wild brawl. The kind where the Washington County sheriff would show up with a Thompson submachine gun and fire off a clip in the air to get their attention. Yet, also, the kind where a seasoned waitress could walk between the combatants to calm them down. For others, its appeal was music and dancing, “a lot of fun,” as more than one woman has told me. Usually, the music was from a well-stocked jukebox, though there was the occasional live band. As for the fights? “It did have some action,” as one replied tersely with a sly grin. Do note that “consummate businesswoman” Callie alone is named in the obituary as the owner and operator.

There’s a good reason why. Her first husband, Milton A. Peacock, in partnership with Robert L. Tait, bought the restaurant in June 1963 from its founder, William J. “Bill” Bowen senior. In November 1965, while living in Los Angeles, Tait sold his half-interest to Peacock. That month, Milton and his wife, Calla R. Peacock, sold the restaurant by a warranty deed to Gordon Greenlaw. Yes, her future husband. In a 1967 real estate sale, Gordon was listed as a single man (more accurately, divorced) and that transaction was witnessed by Calla Peacock. By July 1969, though, she was Calla R. Greenlaw in the property dealings.

Did Gordon have any role in running the restaurant or its bar? The picture gets complicated, thanks to the presence of D & V Inc. of Bangor, which somehow concurrently owned the property or the business or both. While Bill was recognized as the restaurant founder, D & V applied for the liquor license in 1969.

A black-and-white photo of the Red Ranch presents an isolated building across the railroad tracks, a kind of diner with huge letters PIZZA emblazoned along the exterior and a two-story farmhouse attached to one side. Another photo found online has the interior with the jukebox and a row of counter stools that were always full, as a comment noted, along with the fact that they were beige, not red.

As for the food? Several women have said, “I couldn’t go there till I was old enough to drink.” Another, though, insists the menu was good.

The Greenlaws apparently exited the scene when D & V sold the Red Ranch to Ernest J. “Ernie” Guay in 1972 — three years before the Greenlaws bought our house. Under Ernie, the restaurant became a bar only. Sometime after that, Jeanette, his wife, used it for an antique shop. In the end, it served as a bottle- and can-deposit redemption center.

The structure was erased from the landscape when their son, Ernest junior, sold it in 2003 and Cornerstone Baptist Church was erected the next year. So much for an overlooked footnote of local history.

Calla’s real estate business involved owning rental properties around town, or so I’m told.

One claim in the obituary especially intrigues us. “Calla missed her calling as a master carpenter. In her heyday she could build anything and was meticulous to a fault. Anything she put together had to be exact, and all work would stop until it met her specifications.”

At first, we didn’t see much evidence of that in our house, but it soon prompted speculation of which ‘70s touches were hers. In our renovations upstairs, the back side of baseboards we removed had the professionally lettered words STEW, and then VACANCY, BOILED LOBSTER, and, my favorite, FULL COURSE DINNERS $1.50 UP. We’re keeping those, though we’re not yet sure where.

I originally thought they were from the Red Ranch, a reflection of the Yankee frugality that recycles forever, if it can. Do note that no paint was squandered covering the lettering, since it was facing the wall anyway. Or was it intended for future history, the way a time capsule is?

Well, the obituary did insist, “She loved working and was always busy.” Did that include cooking or even gardening? The kitchen wasn’t a master chef’s ideal. Leave it at that.

The obituary also acknowledged, “She raised and adored her poodles. She always had at least two of them running around.” That might account for some of the badly scratched doors and floors. Poodles, I’ve heard, attract a specific fandom, usually not of the Wild West saloon crowd. That would have suggested pit bulls or, dare we venture, mastiffs.

Regardless, “In her later years she wintered in Florida but always called Eastport her home.”

One thing the obituary didn’t mention was an earlier marriage to Milton Peacock, the father of her daughter Sandra R. Stevens. After the divorce, he relocated to South Portland and Sanford, Maine, and is likely buried in Brunswick, Maine, amid Mitchells — perhaps his sister and brother-in-law?

Curiously, Calla and Sandra share a twin-hearts, mother-daughter headstone in Crawford reflecting what I’ll assume was a close emotional bond. The daughter died in Bangor a year before her mother, and, from what I find, had married at 18. That marriage ended in divorce. The second is more nebulous, though he died in 1993 in Newfoundland and Labrador and is buried in Eastport. I still have no clue to how her Stevens surname fits in. Not that it matters in terms of our old house.

Also buried in Crawford is Calla’s grandfather who inspired a 1988 book, George Magoon and the Downeast Game War. He adamantly resisted Maine’s early 1900s’ hunting laws, especially the part about having to buy a license.

That said, what interests me is a sense of a lifestyle for our occupants over the years, along with the many remaining questions. For our Greenlaws, especially, dare we call it colorful?

From what I see in Gordon’s real estate transfers, the Greenlaws didn’t live in the house much, if at all. Their address was soon the house just to the north, as well as properties at the other end of Water Street.

The Tennesseans

Continuing the history of our old house:

In September 1983, Elwood Stackwood Richardson and Mary Blanche Richardson of Smithville, Tennessee, took possession for use as a summer home. They already owned and operated the Dennys River Inn, a B&B in neighboring Dennysville, Maine. A decade later, the house was conveyed to Mary Blanche’s daughter and son-in-law, Wayne Henry and Mary Jo Warner of McMinnville, one county south in Tennessee. The move was essentially to handle the details of selling the site.

This stage of occupancy centers on Mary Blanche, who was born in 1916 in Puyallup, Washington, to a family of transplanted Maine lumbermen. After 1976, she married widower Elwood Richardson, born in 1907 in Bristol, Pennsylvania, and relocated with her daughter, Mary Jo, to Philadelphia. That’s where Wayne Henry Warner, born in 1941, enters the picture. He married Mary Jo, born in 1943, and became a high school football, track, and baseball coach in Tennessee.

Thus, they all would have been adults in their times in Eastport.

For them, Eastport was a summer home, one not rented out in winter, in part because of its rundown physical condition, as Mary Jo told me. Her mother had relatives in Maine, either in Whitney or Whitneyville, neither one far from Eastport. She also loved antiquing. Guests during the family’s summer often liked to tour the Franklin D. Roosevelt estate across the water in Canada, causing her to quip that she visited Campobello more than Eleanor had.

Elwood, meanwhile, enjoyed fishing.

Bicycling and taking nearby ferries were other summer activities.

Mary Blanche was responsible for having the shingles put on the exterior and would have appreciated our raising of the roof upstairs. “It was something she wanted to do,” I was told. The move was apparently inspired by New England author and illustrator Tasha Tudor. Mary Blanche did have a cat named Tasha, reflecting the fondness.

Mary Jo also confirmed that the beams in the front parlor existed at the time, along with the “rather basic” kitchen and its Montgomery Ward stovetop. The property across the street also a house trailer blocking a direct view of the ocean. The modular home came later. And she remembered how small the only bathroom was.

She also asked about the sewage situation in the cellar. What?

And then about our contractor, quite surprised that he shows up on time and sticks to his promises. No comment there.

She was equally delighted to learn that the downtown is no longer boarded up and that the arts scene has emerged. Her stepfather, Elwood, took up painting in his summers in Eastport and was part of a circle that had outdoor shows in town.

Eastport did look quite different that recently. It was a time when the population was sinking and many of the remaining but vacant canneries and their piers lining the downtown were falling into the sea, one by one.

Who are they kidding?

I’m thinking of those ridiculous online ads that purport to be something about Maine but show us images of urban Arizona or maybe Miami, the furthest opposites to where I live yet purporting to be local for here. You know, most affordable housing or food delivery or the ten best restaurants or plumbers in Eastport. We don’t have nearly that many. Got it?

Many of them somehow zero in on tiny East Machias or, for our weather almanac, as St. John, New Brunswick, or Halifax, Nova Scotia. Do note that East Machias is not Eastport. They’re an hour apart.

There’s also the Microsoft ab that proclaims “Eastport light traffic,” which is truly baffling. There are only three or four traffic lights in the entire county, OK? Heavy traffic, apart from road construction, is usually three or four vehicles.

These are even worse than the late-night TV commercials that couldn’t come close to properly pronouncing where we lived in the Pacific Northwest.

Retrofitting Jaya into the ashram led to a chain reaction

I had expected that the deep revisions to my previously published novels in reaction to the appearance What’s Left would apply only to the ones related to Cassia’s father.

I was wrong, once again. I blame Cassia, by the way.

She had led me to present a more unified set of hippie novels and bring them more into the present. Now she wanted me to do something similar to my remaining works.

I could connect two more books through the character of Jaya. She was the center of my book that leads into the Pacific Northwest. By shifting her spiritual identity from Sufi to yogi, I could then weave her into the yoga novel, in effect creating a two-part series.

How would that work?

It all depended, I sensed, on the yoga novel. She would have to become one of the eight resident followers of the guru.

The obvious one, Swami’s right-hand disciple, was male. That shift would throw off the balance of having half of the followers being male and the other half, female. In addition, the interaction with Jaya and the guru, a female, would lack a basic tension.

Having Swami be a woman, as mine was, had presented a hurdle for many of my potential readers. The ashram was rogue enough as it was.

The gender change allowed for a more credible – and colorful – character. It also had a ripple effect through the rest of the cast.

In the end, the book had a new title and some renamed and otherwise altered characters while now leading organically into a series. Just where does she go when she leaves the ashram? You got it.

~*~

Finding the artwork that now graces the cover was a boost. Maybe it even prompted another sweep through the story to enhance the humor.

Much had happened in the yoga world in the time since I drafted the story and eventually published it. Many of the new religion organizations in America – and I’ll include yoga, despite the usual protests – had suffered serious scandals, either monetary or sexual. At least I had avoided that by keeping my story to a single day.

Bit by bit, I learned some of what happened after I had moved on. A chance encounter in a central Pennsylvania diner with one of the figures, who was waitressing on a very busy day, revealed one disturbing schism. Later, through the Internet, I heard from several key players from my residency and learned I hadn’t been ostracized, after all, but the operation had undergone a serious upheaval shortly before Swami’s death. And then I had some long phone calls with the figure who had been in the role Jaya subsumed in the revised novel. The relationship wasn’t exactly as I had assumed – or anyone else, as far as I can see. On top of that, a former girlfriend finally told me of her mistreatment when she visited. There were other dark sides I hadn’t suspected.

Repeatedly, they agreed that I was at the ashram during its glorious apogee. I missed later conflicts that erupted when the locals decided the place was a cult or events I see as fatal changes in direction, especially in terms of guru worship.

~*~

With the focus on Jaya and what she gained from her experiences on the yoga farm, I’m spared from going into an expose of a marginal spiritual community. For me, the time was a major turning point in my life, leading me to the Society of Friends, or Quakers, which to my surprise had been the faith of my ancestors.

I still believe as a nation, we could be doing much, much better. Something more like what I see in the Biblical Kingdom of God on earth.

Yoga had been a stretch for me. My preference would have been for Zen Buddhist, had a teacher appeared. Instead, this American woman in a pink jump suit came across my path. It still seems surreal.  In my hippie novels, it’s Tibetan Buddhist.

A good friend who had been an Episcopal nun had her own insights on monastic life, with many overlaps to what I had experienced. I’ve long been fascinated by American Shakers, too. More recently I’ve added Greek Orthodox examples and mysticism to the mix. And, curiously, my most “hippie” identity or fullness came during those years on the yoga farm.

There are lessons I’ve carried through life, but I should also acknowledge potentially damaging instances, including things that came up in therapy years later. My denial of emotions, especially.

Novels about yoga are surprisingly few. As touchstones for his book, I’ll instead cite non-fiction: Anagarika Govinda’s The Way of the White Clouds, Patanjali’s Yoga Sutras, collected writings of Swami Sivananda. Ram Dass’ Be Here Now, and stray bits by and about Murshid Samuel Lewis, and Kathleen Norris’ Cloister Walk, for a Christian parallel. Surprisingly, Herman Hesse’s Siddhartha left me cold.

 

Ahoy, mates! It’s a small world, indeed

I’ve been caught off-guard several times while wearing my gray Louis R. French historic schooner hoodie around Eastport. (Well, one of them. I now have three, but that’s another story.)

The first encounter was at the county courthouse in Machias while researching the deeds to our home. A registrar asked what I knew about the boat and I started replying with the history. She smiled and said, “My dad worked aboard it,” back when it was a sardine carrier based in Lubec, the town just south of Eastport. During that stretch, the masts were removed and the vessel was powered by an inboard motor.

The second time was when a friend, a legendary ship pilot, smiled and said he rode many times aboard it as a kid. Bob did correct me, saying the French wasn’t a sardine carrier but a freighter carrying cat food to Canada. (“Cat food to Canada?” Sounds like a title to me.) His family did own canneries in Lubec, Eastport, Portland, and a few other places. That’s yet another history to consider.

The next incident came while leaving my dentist’s office and his wife ( a.k.a. center of operations) Mary, blurted out, “Lewis R. French? That was my family’s boat.” For 50-some years, in fact, or the time it was based on our waters, when her Burpee and Vose families possessed the vessel. From her I learned that during the Prohibition, the French was an active rum-runner. Sardine carrier? Huh? The missions do get more interesting, no?

She also said something about ghosts. Well, if they could talk.

She does have the book published later, but I do suspect some of those details are missing.

The most recent account came while watching a big cruise ship come into Eastport. A woman standing nearby saw my hoodie and then told me she used to work in the office when the French belonged to Seaport Navigation. (She confirmed that my dentist’s wife’s families were among the owners). The headquarters was on the second floor of a waterfront building that she pointed to, one where friends of ours have their gallery and apartment, and said she never got tired of the view. She remembered typing up many documents regarding  deliveries of canned sardines to the railroad line in St. Andrews, New Brunswick. Shipping them from there rather than by truck from Maine was much cheaper. By this point, the French was Seaport’s backup ship.

So sardines were still part of the story.

Shelter-in-place boredom? You kidding?

This post was supposed to appear four years ago but somehow it fell through the cracks. With a few tweaks, it retains relevance, IMHO.

Here goes, from back in Dover, New Hampshire:

~*~

Catching up with my dentist, now that his office is open again, we noted our astonishment that so many adults were complaining of being bored during the official shutdown of most businesses, schools, churches, and public services.

Bored? I repeated my adage that boredom is a luxury of the teenage years – most adults I’ve known simply don’t have time for it. Alas, it must say something about the people I associate with. (Well, frankly I find most TV to be boring, but others might say the same thing of the operas I’ve been streaming every night. ‘Nuff said there.)

My dental doc, meanwhile, expressed his gratitude for the time off as “paternity leave” he suddenly had to devote to his two- to four-month-old daughter, a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity, as well as time to catch up on a pile of desired novels. Not a bad combination.

We also touched on studies of the eye damage being done to children under age two by their extensive use of digital screens. Well, and their need for boredom to allow essential self-exploration, discovery, and growth, too.

On my end, I have to acknowledge how little cash I’ve used since March 11, the last time I went to the bank. Mostly, it’s been plastic, which fortunately hasn’t spiraled out of control.

What did you discover in this period of changed focus?